Rest day in Burgos meant slow coffee mornings, free entry to the Human Evolution Museum, and views from the castle hill. I strolled the city, grabbed pintxos and ice cream by the cathedral, and stocked up for tomorrow. A perfect reset, and my feet finally feel ready for the road again.

14.34 miles from Agés to Burgos, mostly flat after an early hill and a dull river-park approach. Sore feet and a slow hostel check-in, then free Tuesday entry to the vast cathedral. Finished with wine, a pilgrim menu, and farewells. Rest day in Burgos next.

14.75 miles from Tosantos to Agés in drizzle and fog, with a steep climb, quiet forest, and horses by the path. Coffee stops with friends, a rescued bird cameo, and a welcome four-bed room felt like luxury. After dinner downstairs, I planned a full rest day in Burgos to heal sore ankles.

13 miles to Tosantos felt heavy despite shorter distance. Clouds, cafes, and a lap-seeking kitten marked the walk, but by evening my body and mind were both tired. A donativo stay brought a cave-church tour, shared cooking, and dinner, though I mostly kept to myself and rested early.

18 miles in 94°F heat from Nájera to a monastery donativo in Grañon tested me hard. After steep hills, no shade, and low energy, I arrived exhausted but was revived by shared cooking, mass, and dinner with fellow pilgrims. A tough day turned into one of the most meaningful Camino nights.