17 miles from Moratinos to El Burgo Ranero: halfway marker photos in Sahagún, breakfast at a cafe, long hot stretches with little shade, real patatas bravas in Bercianos, and Aquarius con vodka at the hostel. A bittersweet last evening with Tovin... paella, steak, cod, chocolate tart before goodbye.

18.5 miles from Carrión de los Condes to Moratinos: long flat stretches, sunrise on sandy paths, coffee stops, brunch with sangria, and too many yellow arrows. Tovin carried my pack, burned his lips, and did laundry again. Ended with smoothies, family-style dinner, and a sunset walk.

11.6 miles from Frómista to Carrión de los Condes on a shaded river alternate, picnic under trees, then a hot flat push. Self check in to an AC room with a pool, laundry, terrace drinks, and a hearty pilgrim menu. Ended the day cooling our feet on the rooftop and resting up.

15.6 miles from Castrojeriz to Frómista began with a steep morning climb, then flat meseta, aqueducts, and river views. Tovin carried my pack, Two Pack Peregrino! Slow check in, laundry, tortilla and drinks, a hearty dinner of morcilla and ribs, then an evening walk with shy kittens.

12.8 miles from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz across meseta flats. Solo pace, tortilla and coffee stop, a surprise run-in with Maureen, then into town for a private room. Tovin arrived, we caught up over burgers, walked the streets, spotted kittens, and packed for tomorrow.