Late start from chilly beds, rolling hills into crowded Sarria. Lunch kebab on a bridge, then pushed past Sarria to O Mosterio for fewer crowds. Shared wine, dinner, and bittersweet goodbyes with Liz, Santiago, and Mark, as our group is splitting.

Late start, then a steep forest descent that wrecked my knees but led to great cafés, friends, and stories along the way. Ended at a vegan albergue in A Balsa with hammocks, homemade soap, and an amazing dinner. Evening filled with guitars, laughter, and pilgrim “foot surgery” at the table.

Started flat through villages, coffee with a sweet dog named Oreo, then the big climb into O Cebreiro. Tough but beautiful, crossing into Galicia. Explored town, shared meals, and found a hidden hilltop cross with stunning views. Ended the day with mass, sunset wine, and Camino family.

Beautiful climb into Villafranca with vineyards and mountain views, then I took the alternate high route, stunning, if a bit confusing through chestnut groves. Reached Trabadelo, stayed at Casa Susi, soaked my feet in the creek, and ended with an incredible communal dinner and good company.

Late start out of Molinaseca, donut breakfast in Ponferrada, then long pavement stretches into wine country. Reached a tiny albergue in Valtuille de Arriba with five playful dogs. Shared tea, wine, and a lovely garden dinner. Quiet, cozy, and one of my most special stays.